Ladakh

Leh, a one-time departure point for yak trains travelling into Central Asia, is located in a small valley just to the north of the Indus Valley. These days it is part strategic military centre and part tourist town. It's main claim to fame is the Leh Palace. It was built in the 16th century but is now deserted and badly damaged, a legacy of Ladakh's wars with Kashmir in the last century. The main reason for making the climb up to the palace is for the superb views from the roof. The Zanskar mountains, across the Indus River, look close enough to touch. The palace was sold to the Archaeological Survey of India by the Ladakhi royal family and an ambitious renovation project is under way. Try to get a monk to unlock the preserved, but now unused, central prayer room; it's dusty and spooky, with huge masks looming out of the dark.

A popular day trip from Leh is the 20km (10mi) excursion to the Tikse Gompa, which is picturesquely sited on a hilltop overlooking the Indus River. It has an important collection of Tibetan-style books and some excellent artwork. It's also a good place to watch religious ceremonies. The Hemis Gompa, 45km (30m) from Leh, is the largest and most important in Ladakh. It is famous for its Hemis Festival, which usually takes place in the second half of June or in early July. It features two days of elaborate masked dances watched by crowds of eager spectators. For those who haven't pumped enough adrenalin simply getting to Ladakh (see Getting There & Getting Around), white-water rafting trips on the Indus River can be organised through several agencies operating from Leh, and there are trekking opportunities in the Markha and Indus valleys.